Saturday, January 26, 2008

Chorten Kora - going round the Stupa

The history of mythology is not only as old as that of the human race, but also very much interwoven. From the ancient Ramayana to Iliad and Odyssey to modern day classics; Ayesha, The Lord of the Rings to Eragon, - to name a few, all have proved repeatedly how much we love living that mysticism. The film industries all over the world have recreated and enlivened the world of surreal mysticism albeit for commercial reasons, tapping the man’s desire to experience that world.

The Bhutanese live this every moment of their lives. Their beliefs are mythical and mystic. Mountains are sacred and inhabited by holy spirits and the ones who attempt to enter their habitat is repelled, punished and return with a mysterious decease or a person who dirties a holy well, gets ill and the cause or remedy unknown succumbs to a mysterious illness. Even the educated will consult a spiritual Lama, a priest before deciding on personal and professional moves.

Now the film industry in the country approaches such topics, the same way the west have been doing in the past. Chowden Kota- going round the stupa or cons tabulation is a new movie in town I went to see with a couple of friends, and enjoyed very much assisted by sub-titles.

The story in a nut shell is like this. A remote village Yangste in eastern Bhutan is demonized by an evil spirit, and the frightened villagers approach a high Lama for advice, who subdues the demon spirit. He asks the villagers to build a “stupa” and also to find a pious maiden to be enshrined within, who will meditate on behalf of all humans and sentients. This happens to be a pretty princess in the neighboring Arunachal province, India. She is approached by villagers on the day before her wedding and on her wedding day, on the advice of a deity who comes in a dream, she decides to sacrifice her love and life for their benefit. She meditates inside, enshrined and leaves this world forever on the fourteenth day.

The written history of Chorten Kora does not mention the princess or her sacrifice. But its her legend not the history the people of Bhutan want to believe and celebrate every year after year

I am no film critic but for me it was a good movie with beautiful natural settings, good acting and music, despite not having high tech wizardry that the west depends so much on, making this movie, a fresh experience, a change from the usual.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

“Inclusive” Technology - the need of the hour


DVB-T was big news in Sri Lanka yesterday. - the launching of the test transmission of DVB-T. It received wide media coverage. There were many references to this by bloggers too- some specialists and also others who have an interest. While for a few it was a break through or a big step in a country’s broadcasting format or technology, for the most in the country, it didn’t mean anything. Simply Nothing. How many of you, the educated know what DVB-T is ?

Why is technology so distant to us, especially in the developing world ?

When television first came to Sri Lanka, I was in my late teens and it was simply magical. It reached the people faster than a forest fire. It was not only faster but also much easier than getting a land phone. Getting a telephone was a challenge, as one had to reach people in high places, then visit the local exchange office and then wait for “loops”. It was, in fact, very loopy. This was in the capital city, not only in other parts of the country. Then all these changed with the advent of mobile technology.

I am not sure when I got my first mobile, probably in the late 90s. It was a simple phone, but today, I use a phone with new features and services – bluetooth, sms and roaming, etc. These have helped me and millions of people in developing countries to communicate. The mobile technology has reached out to the average man who is even living in the periphery. Now, he too is included in this world. This is inclusive technology.

Can we say the same about other technology in our countries? How distant it is from the average man? “Internet” is an example. How prohibitive is access to the internet? Is it for a segment of the people who can afford it or for the people in areas with better communication infrastructure? Is it exclusively for a section of the society? Is it to distance the average man further? And now DVB-T.

In a way, technology is not to be blamed, but the way we have failed in taking the advancement in technology to the benefit of a wider group. Finding an answer to this is the challenge we face. There are a few lessons we can learn from “microfinance” – the buzzword in development. Microfinance is not rocket science; it is simply banking services for those who didn’t have access to such services, sometimes not wanted by the big banks. Microfinance has taken financial services such as savings, loans, insurance to millions of people around the world, through inclusive finance. Today even the multinational banks are into microfinance, trying to downscale their operations to reach a low income but a wider and profitable market segment. Using mobile phones for fund transfer and palm pilots for record keeping in the field are two successful experiences in the South Asia where microfinance and technology have blended seamlessly. And technology should go the full distance.

This posting is in no way to devalue the importance of technology in our lives, but an attempt to remind that it is equally important to know what it means to us.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

A Snow “Rain” in Thimphu


It’s snowing in Bhutan and the country is celebrating. – A traditional holiday on the first day of snow. So I am writing this from an empty office.

For a country in the Himalayas, snowing is important. It adds wetness to its already parched and dry mountains. And later the snow will melt and feed rivers. In an economy dominated by agriculture, a good snow fall raises the hopes of the nation.- it is “raining”.

The current snowfall is expected to continue. Snow piles will create road blocks and bring traffic to a standstill. The network of road over the mountains will be the most affected. Thimphu will be cut off from other parts. The country will grind to a halt as infrastructure and support services are ill equipped to cope up with such pressures.

There is always another side- a twist at the end.

Well, why worry about all that now..? I am packing my bags to go to a friend’s for lunch.

It is snowing heavily now.

Let’s celebrate!!!

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

In Pursuit of Happiness


A group of young Lamas in Bhuntang, Bhutan.

Women in Sri Lanka



Women are the main contributor to Sri Lankan Foreign Earnings. They are employed in the Middle East, mainly as domestic aides and in Tea and Apparel sectors in Sri Lanka.

But have they benefited? What do you think?

This picture taken in December 2007 is the wallpaper on my laptop screen.

Colors of Ahmadabad


This is not a painting but a real house in rural Gujarat.

India is a great nation. A country with so many colours. We see these colors every days, mostly of the Bollywood, but the real colors are with real people.



Bombs in Shangri-La


When I heard the explosion it was around 11 o’clock in the morning, last Sunday- that’s January 20th 2008.I was in my room after a late breakfast, sitting in front of the laptop checking mail and TV, watching the Australian Open.

It was loud, it shook the building and echoed over the valley for few seconds. People started gathering in front of the new building under construction. No damage, I mean visible.

Later I heard there were 4 bombs that exploded around that time in different parts of the country.

I am still here……

Bhutan is a lovely place. Over three-thirds, under forest cover. Mountains are all over the country other than in the southern part bordering India. Many of the mountains are considered sacred and untouched. There is so much purity in this environment- Pristine is the air, specially outside Thimphu. Rivers are lovely and air is crisp but thin.

Bhutan is a monarchy, but the country is going through a democratization process. They love their King who is Oxford educated and is promoting democracy in the country. The first election is this year. I have seen him many times. Where I play badminton with some locals. He comes and plays basketball with young subjects. You can imagine how popular he is. Very Humane. He has set the country moving in the right direction.

There are many human issues. Poverty is big. Alcoholism is another issue. Bhutan this year banned sale of cigarettes, the first country to do so. These people are also considered the happiest people according to the international human happiness index. The level of education is high. All schools are in English which is the official language. I work with many western educated guys. Smart and bright. People are so nice and friendly and hospitable.

The last Shangri-La is a Buddhist country and one can see colourful monasteries everywhere. The more sacred ones sit on mountain tops. And you can see Lamas clad in their robes on the road. Priesthood is a way out of poverty for the poor. Being Mahayana followers there are so many rituals.

India plays a major role in Bhutan’s social-economic and political environment. You can see it everywhere. The big brother of a tiny country.

Bhutan is sandwiched between India and China. That explains some of the plights. Many border issues.

There are political issues too. There is a trend against government from people in the south, of Nelapi origin, said to be influenced by Marxists in Nepal. Also there are Indian terrorist hidings in Bhutan’s thick forest, guys who are fighting for a separate state in Assam. So things are not as rosy as one may think.

But it is Shangri-La- the only Shangri-La